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As an Afghan Muslim who lived below the Taliban, I’ve a profound understanding of warfare’s destructiveness. I yearn for peace and coexistence
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Ehsanullah Amiri within the West Financial institution metropolis of Hebron, Israel.
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JERUSALEM — For Muslims, Al-Aqsa Mosque is likely one of the prime three most necessary websites, after Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia. In the identical compound on Temple Mount because the golden Dome of the Rock that rises over Jerusalem, it’s etched into the minds of many Muslims. Rising up, I used to be taught to see Jerusalem, with its wealthy and tumultuous historical past, as the only property of Muslims, unjustly occupied by Jews. This metropolis has survived wars and massacres perpetrated by Christians, Muslims and Jews alike.
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Born in a distant, picturesque village within the mountains of central Afghanistan, I spent a lot of my childhood surrounded by the fantastic thing about nature. I had little understanding of the world.
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Within the Nineties, our solely hyperlink to the skin world was the crackling voice of the radio my father owned, a uncommon wealth in our remoted valley. We listened to information about Afghanistan’s civil warfare, in addition to world information, together with the conflicts between Israel and Palestine.
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Overlooking Jerusalem, with the golden Dome of the Rock and, within the centre with the black dome, Al-Aqsa Mosque. Picture by iStock/Getty Photos
When the shadow of the Taliban’s first reign, from 1996 to 2001, fell upon us, my household fled as refugees to Pakistan. The neighbouring nation not solely provided shelter, however continued the acquainted narrative of hate for Israel that we had identified again house. Pakistan is a land the place its authorities inserts a final web page in passports that claims its residents can journey to all nations besides Israel.
The arrival of the U.S.-led coalition in Afghanistan in 2001, and the autumn of the rule of the Taliban, opened a brand new chapter in our lives. We returned to our nation, the place a surge of media and entry to the web linked us to the world, and alternatives to learn and examine.
I witnessed and nonetheless carry the fear of warfare and have a profound understanding of its damaging nature. As a survivor, like numerous Afghans, of Taliban fundamentalism, I yearn for peace and coexistence. It’s an ache that punctures the soul to see innocents, kids and the aged amongst them, killed throughout the globe, whether or not in Ukraine, Israel or Gaza.
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On Oct. 7, 2023, as I scrolled via my telephone, I used to be struck by horrifying footage: Hamas terrorists descending upon Israel, seizing hostages, setting houses ablaze in a rampage, dragging lifeless our bodies via the streets of Gaza. For the reason that outbreak of warfare between Israel and Hamas, the deaths of tens of 1000’s of civilians, together with kids, and the widespread destruction in Gaza brought on by Israeli airstrikes have been devastating to me.
It drove me to journey to Israel late final 12 months, a visit made attainable by Sharaka, a non-profit group born within the wake of the historic Abraham Accords. Devoted to selling peace within the Center East and fostering bridges between Israel and Muslims worldwide, it provided me an opportunity, as a journalist, to see past the shadows of my previous and search a brand new understanding of Israel and Jews, their historical past, tradition, struggles and beliefs.
The delegation, consisting of fewer than a dozen folks, principally journalists and civil activists from Pakistan, was accompanied by members of Sharaka and an Israeli journalist working for a neighborhood newspaper. We headed south.
Our first cease was Nir Oz, a kibbutz in southern Israel simply three to 4 kilometres from the Gaza Strip. The place is now not the colourful enclave it as soon as was. Earlier than the October 7 bloodbath by Hamas, it housed practically 400 folks; a neighborhood lively and love.
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Irit Lahav, the daughter of one of many founders of Nir Oz and a survivor of the October 7 terrorist assault on the kibbutz, describes how she and her younger daughter hid in a protected room for nearly 12 hours with out meals, water or a bathroom.
On our means there, we have been briefed on learn how to take cowl if a rocket got here from Gaza, a grim actuality Israelis have confronted for years — below fixed risk, peace perpetually feels out of attain. This actuality jogged my memory of my very own experiences in Afghanistan, by no means figuring out if you happen to’d make it house alive at night time, all the time questioning if a suicide assault may kill you, because it did 1000’s of Afghans.
Nir Oz is now principally in ruins and deserted, house to solely a small variety of its remaining neighborhood members. Irit Lahav, a survivor of the assault, and the daughter of one of many kibbutz’s founders, welcomed us on the major entrance. Nonetheless reeling, she shared her story of survival as our dialog was interrupted by the sound of explosions from Gaza. I used to be not bothered by these booms, having witnessed a lot of the identical again house, but it surely was a stark reminder of the relentless warfare, the absence of peace.
When Hamas Nukhba Brigade fighters stormed her kibbutz, Lahav and her younger daughter hid in a protected room for practically 12 hours with out meals, water or a bathroom. “We communicated by textual content message,” she recounted, explaining how they stayed silent to keep away from detection.
They have been planning to kill me.
Irit Lahav, Nir Oz survivor
After their rescue, she discovered the devastating toll: a couple of quarter of her neighborhood, greater than 100 folks, had been killed or taken hostage.
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Lahav and two different Nir Oz residents had been sturdy advocates for peace with Palestinians and Gazans. She labored tirelessly to assist Gazan kids with most cancers or different severe sicknesses, navigating bureaucratic hurdles, securing funding, even driving them to Israel for therapy.
“Whereas I used to be hiding in my protected room with my daughter,” she stated, standing inside a burnt-out home adorned with photos of its homeowners, who have been killed by Hamas, “I felt deeply damage as a result of Palestinians knew three folks from this kibbutz have been serving to them.”
When requested if she nonetheless feels the identical compassion for Palestinians, she replied: “No. They have been planning to kill me.” In return for her years of goodwill and help, Hamas left Lahav with a shattered kibbutz, a neighborhood in ruins. She provided flowers, however they returned bullets, she stated.
A 15-minute drive from Nir Oz, in the course of a desert, is the positioning of the Nova music pageant bloodbath. As soon as a venue for celebration, it has now change into a graveyard honouring the a whole bunch of individuals killed there on that tragic day.
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Tomer Hava, a 24-year-old reservist within the Israel Protection Forces (IDF), speaks on the Nova pageant website of narrowly escaping the Hamas assault on October 7.
Underneath the afternoon Mediterranean solar, pictures of the victims, principally younger women and men, line the positioning, every accompanied by small biography tags. The memorials are surrounded by flowers and Israeli flags that flutter within the light breeze.
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At one nook of the venue, we meet Tomer Hava, a 24-year-old reservist within the Israel Protection Forces (IDF), who had lately spent months on responsibility in Gaza. Combating restricted English, he recounted how he narrowly escaped the Hamas assault at Nova whereas celebrating with shut associates. For hours, he hid within the close by fields. Tomer has additionally misplaced his youthful brother in Gaza, killed whereas combating terrorism.
When requested if he had ever killed civilians in Gaza, Tomer firmly stated no. However explaining the complexities of guerrilla warfare or the ways utilized by rebel teams proved tough for him.
Each warfare, whether or not between two armies or a nation and a terrorist group, claims civilian lives. This, I do know so properly, is the ugliest side of battle, whether or not brought on by the Taliban, U.S. troops or the U.S.-backed Afghan authorities.
In Afghanistan, the Taliban typically used civilian houses as shields, forcing locals to supply shelter, meals and vantage factors to assault troops. In response to Tomer, Hamas employs related ways, utilizing folks’s houses as shields in Gaza.
* * *
Israel has many sacred websites, and I explored a number of of them. In Jerusalem, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, constructed within the fourth century, is considered one of Christianity’s holiest locations. It welcomes guests of all faiths. I additionally visited the Western Wall, within the Outdated Metropolis of Jerusalem, the place non-Jewish guests are required to put on a kippah, a standard Jewish head masking.
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Only a few metres away lies Al-Aqsa Mosque. My Israeli pal accompanied me to the primary entrance, which is guarded by Israeli safety forces. After checking my passport and visa, they allowed me via. Inside, Jordanians and Palestinians deal with administrative duties.
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The Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem, one of many world’s prime websites for Muslims. Picture by iStock/Getty Photos
“Are you Muslim?” one of many Palestinians requested. “Sure, I’m,” I replied with a smile.
“No,” he snapped, wanting indignant. “Say ‘Alhamdulillah,’” referring to the Arabic phrase Muslims use to reward God for blessings.
“Learn me the Shahada,” one other demanded, referring to the Islamic oath, one of many 5 Pillars of Islam.
“You’ve gotten my passport,” I stated. “It says Afghanistan, a Muslim nation. Do you doubt me?”
They questioned my religion. I’ve visited quite a few Muslim holy websites in Afghanistan and Pakistan, but by no means confronted such scrutiny. The expertise of a Muslim questioning one other Muslim’s religion at such a revered website was painful. It left me unsettled.
“I believe it’s disrespectful to check whether or not I’m Muslim,” I stated.
“In case you don’t recite the Shahada, I gained’t allow you to in,” he replied.
Later, I requested Imam Mohammad Tawhidi, of the International Imams Council, which is comprised of students from all sects of Islam, about my expertise at Al-Aqsa Mosque. “Such therapy on the gates of Al-Aqsa Mosque is unacceptable and has no foundation in Islamic regulation. Islam doesn’t mandate testing people on their religion as a situation for entry right into a mosque, nor does it require Muslims to show their spiritual id via recitation,” he stated.
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“Al-Aqsa Mosque, like all homes of God, is supposed to be a spot of worship and non secular reflection, open to all who search to enter. Denying a Muslim entry primarily based on arbitrary assessments is each unjust and un-Islamic, because it disregards the basic Islamic precept that an individual’s declaration of religion is ample to affirm their id as a Muslim,” the Imam stated.
In response to Tawhidi, demanding the recitation of the Shahada as a prerequisite for entry not solely violates private dignity, however dangers imposing conversion components upon non-Muslims who could not totally perceive its implications. That’s opposite to Islamic ethics and the precept that religion should be embraced willingly and with full consciousness.
* * *
All through Jerusalem or Tel Aviv and even in Israel’s rural areas, you see the toll of warfare on households. There are images of Hamas victims in every single place, even greeting you at Ben Gurion Airport. The ache is seen.
At Hostages Sq. in Tel Aviv, I met a number of folks whose members of the family stay in Hamas custody. They have been dwelling in tents within the sq. as they wait. As a member of Hazaras, a persecuted minority in Afghanistan, and a journalist, I’ve lined the Taliban’s abductions of my folks in Kabul. I requested an aged girl in one of many tents how her day by day life had modified since her beloved one was taken. Tears welled in her eyes. “I used to have a standard life. Now I can’t eat, work or dwell. I’m all the time enthusiastic about the hostages.” Ready slowly kills you.
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Two kids stroll via the mock Hamas tunnel set up in Tel Aviv’s Hostages Sq. on Jan. 25, 2025. Picture by Alexi J. Rosenfeld/Getty Photos
Outdoors the tents, women and men, principally aged, gathered in a circle, singing songs with tragic lyrics in Hebrew whereas holding portraits of the victims of the October 7 bloodbath. Within the sq., households of the victims have recreated a mock Hamas tunnel that’s open to the general public — a darkish, closed house crammed with the sounds of explosions. On the partitions, folks have written messages and marked the variety of days their family members had been held captive.
Later, in Tel Aviv, I used to be stunned to satisfy a younger woman who stated, “I’m an Afghan Jew.” I started talking Dari, considered one of Afghanistan’s nationwide languages, however she replied in English, explaining that she was born in america and now lives in Israel. Excited to satisfy somebody from her ancestral land, she known as her grandmother, who lives in New York, and handed me the telephone. Her grandmother spoke fluent Dari with me, regardless of having been away from Afghanistan for greater than half a century. She reminisced about her time finding out at a faculty in Kabul and described the liberty and absence of antisemitism throughout Afghanistan’s final monarchy.
“These have been the nice years of Afghanistan,” she stated. “There was peace.” When the decision ended, her granddaughter, Sarit Gad, informed me, “You made her total month.”
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Afghanistan as soon as had a small Jewish neighborhood, however over the course of various regimes and civil wars, practically all of them fled the nation. The final identified Jew fled in 2021, when the Taliban took management as soon as once more.
Save A Youngster’s Coronary heart, a hospital in Tel Aviv, treats kids with advanced coronary heart situations, principally from Africa and Center Jap Muslim nations. Since 2017, it has saved 5 Afghan kids, together with one in 2022. This was throughout Taliban rule — the identical group that helps Hamas, named a faculty after Yahya Sinwar, a Palestinian militant and Hamas chief (killed in 2024), and celebrates Hamas’s assaults on Israelis.
* * *
Israel is a multicultural, multi-ethnic nation, a truth hardly ever highlighted. Some 1.2 million Arab Israelis get pleasure from social freedoms and political illustration. About 250,000 Bedouins and Druze have equal rights alongside different Israelis. I met members of each communities, some whom misplaced household within the Hamas assault merely for being Israeli.
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In Hebron, The Cave of Machpelah or The Tomb of Patriarchs and Matriarchs. Picture by iStock/Getty Photos
On the street to Hebron within the West Financial institution (often called Al-Khalil in Arabic), Israelis should journey in armoured buses. Because the street passes via enclaves the place Palestinians dwell, components of it are flanked by tall concrete boundaries to discourage gunfire from surrounding areas. Bullet marks have been seen on the window of the bus beside my seat.
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Hebron, one of many oldest cities within the Levant, is a holy website for Muslims, Jews and Christians, with a protracted historical past of battle and contested land. The Tomb of Patriarchs and Matriarchs lies beneath a Crusader-era church. Right here, in a sequence of caves, are buried Abraham, Isaac, Sarah, Jacob, their tombs adorned with inscriptions in Arabic — relationship again to the Ottoman period — and in Hebrew.
Orthodox Jews sing, examine and pray within the synagogue part of the Tomb, and Muslims pray and worship of their Mosque of Ibrahimi. Two sides of the identical Tomb. Male infants are additionally circumcised right here, a process carried out by a standard physician. As soon as it’s finished, the group breaks into track and the daddy reveals the child’s title.
When the Muslim cleric delivers the adhan, the Islamic name to prayer, the doorways stay closed, and the Jewish worshippers are held inside till the decision for prayer concludes. Israeli Jews aren’t permitted within the mosque. A big contingent of Israeli troopers for the safety of Jews are seen right here and all through Hebron.
As I left the traditional metropolis, I puzzled how Abraham would have felt, seeing his Jewish and Muslim descendants locked in battle moderately than dwelling in peace. As one native stated, “We’re all of the grandchildren of Abraham. Why shouldn’t we dwell in peace?”
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